Greetings from Krakow

5/09/2008

We arrived in Krakow last night after a long train journey. We thought we were doing pretty well in finding the bus stop and bus to our hostel. ... But we were a little over confident, got off the bus too early and had to walk the rest of the way (about 3/4 an hour) but at least we didn't get lost and we found a "hole in the wall " so we could get some zeloti (polish money) to pay for our accomodation. We didn't arrive until after 10pm at the Travellers Inn hostel and luckily the guy on reception stayed back to wait for us. He was very friendly and full of information. He stayed for about an hour talking to us and was very interested in our travels and wanted to know how our experience compared to 30 years ago and especially how Poland has changed. He asked us if we were going to go out once we had unpacked.... which made us laugh.... might have 30 years ago, but that was the last thing on our mind as we were so exhausted after the train trip. Even if Krakow is a pretty swinging place, I think it is more for the young than the young at heart.
This hostel is very nice.... only 5 bedrooms, all doubles or twins and clean and QUIET! And they have a better grade of cardboard cornflakes. It has just been renovated and was originally an apartment with servant quarters.... we got the servant quarters.... sparse but comfortable and we had a good nights sleep. We are going to stay an extra day here and sort out our forward plans, so until Monday. Our friendly guy on reception has suggested a hop on hop-off bus for about the same price of the train to Budapest which has interesting stops on the way.
This hostel is quite a change after "The Old Prague Hostel" which was boisterous and party heaven. Fortunately, we weren't the only oldies there, so we didn't stick out like a sore thumb, and everyone was friendly even if they thought Mum and Dad had arrived.
The last night we were there we had the "Spanish invasion" as an Aussie girl.... had to be an Aussie.... invited back a group of spanish backpacker guys she had met. They were okay - but very noisy!!! Reception finally kicked them out about 12.30pm and they left happily enough and we could finally get some sleep.
Today, we explored Krakow using Rick Steves book as our guide. We started at the Wawel Castle and cathedral... which is only around the corner from our hostel. Then walked though a park to the beginning of our own walking tour through the old town. This is quite different to Prague, not as ornate... but has it's own style of ambiance about it and there is plenty going on. Lots of souvenir shops and eating places. It is amazingly cheap and we even bought lunch for a change which cost us $7.50 each including drinks. We usually make do with what we can snaffle from breakfast at the hostel or go without and just grab a coffee and fruit if we are in a market.
There is plenty to see and you can go into church overload if you are so inclined, so we only do the ones that are recommended not to miss.... and they usually are the wow factor and worthwhile the few zeloty.
Krakow is undergoing a noticeable upgrade with a lot of the buildings being restored to their former glory and there is a sense of pride taken in the history of Poland in general and especially Krakow. There is even an exhibition in the "planty" (park) of all the restoration that has taken place.
Crossing the road is as interesting as it was in Czech Republic. A pedestrian crossing does not necessarily mean traffic stops. So you have to high tail it pretty quick! Bob seems to be a magnet for trams, always being "dinged" at and about to be mown down!
The beggar women who drag their babies and young children around - and there are a lot of them - are doing well out of the gullible tourists!
Also you can't help but notice the old women who are hugely in bad health, some begging and others in the churches praying. Even the beggar women with the children accost them while they are on their knees before the alter.
There seems to be a more seedy side of life that is more obvious in Krakow. Prague had a seedy side but it was the money changers hassling you and there were beggars on the streets but they were kneeling with their cap or cup out, then they would get up and walk away - so they spoil it for the genuine ones.