Mostar - Bosnia-Herzegovina

26/09/2008
We did a mini bus tour to Mostar today.... there were 8 of us... plus our guide/driver, Nebo - quite a character! Our companions were one Japanese man, a Canadian couple (Rick and Ruth, who we struck up a friendship with), an Irish couple, and a girl from Norway and us Aussies, so quite a mix.
Nebo wanted to know about Brisbane as he said he wants to emigrate to Australia - and at times through out the day, when we talked about Oz - he would call out "We will be neighbours!" He told us of his life in Croatia and about his girlfriend, how hard it is to get ahead even while working 2 jobs. He was an excellent guide, full of information and interesting snippets of the lifestyle and differences between the Serbs and Croatians.
Mostar is in Bosnia-Herzegovina which has fewer than 4 million people, 3 faiths, 3 languages and 2 alphabets. Until 1992 Mostar was an idyllic mingle of cultures - Catholic Croats, Othodox Serbs and Muslim Bosniaks living together in harmony. During the war in 1992 Mostar was gripped by a 3 way fight among the people and the famous Old Bridge (Stari Most) which was symbollic for Mostarians in representing East meets West and ethnic difference did not matter - was bombed by the Croats.... very distressing for everyone, as you can imagine. In 2002 the bridge was re-built using the same technology used by the the Ottomans who built it, 450 years ago.
The town itself is quite different to any other that we have visited in Croatia. In the cobbled old town it has a distinctive middle eastern Islamic influence. The market has the ambiance of a Moroccan bazaar without the hustlers and you hear the call to prayer across the rooftops from the minaret at the mosque.
We walked over the famous Mostar, Old Bridge - quite a feight.... as it is very steep and made of marble with struts across to stop you slipping. I hate to think what it is like when it is raining.
Young men dive off the bridge into the Neretva river 75 feet below to raise money for charity and to show off to their girlfriends.
Nebo had recommended a local dish for lunch, meat fingers with cheese. Not what I would usually have for lunch... anyway when in Rome... ! He also recommended the bebst restaurant the makes this... well I'm sure he is getting a kick back. It was quite tasty but very filling and sat in my tummy all afternoon. The cheese was like butter and melted over the meat which was like a sausage. We met up with Rick and Ruth after lunch and joined them for a coffee which turned out to be turkish it was the only type available. They have 12 days in Croatia and we suggested a trip to Korcula.
On our return journey we made a detour to Methugorje. A popular Catholic pilgrimage site where 6 children have reported seeing vision of the Virgin Mary. Lots of shops selling rosary beads, statues and walking sticks. It would rival the Vatican for souvenirs and artifacts. The walking sticks are for the pilgrims to make the pilgrimage to the site of the vision - and there were bus loads of them..... all very keen and excited. We went into the church and I'm afraid I found the loo stop a more necessary pilgrimage.
Unfortunately our driver got booked in Bosnia for not stopping at a pedestrian crossing. He had told us earlier that because he had a Serbian name (even though he is half Croat) it would be a different fine for him. He had to pay it immediately at the post office. As he crossed the pedestrian crossing 2 cars drove through without stopping. He called out to the police officer why didn't he book them! Not a good day for him as he lost his days pay in the fine.
We gave him a gold kangaroo at the end of the tour and you would have thought we had given him the world!! He said it was the best omen, would wear it always and kissed and hugged us (which just about squeezed the life out of me) and caught Bob by surprise when he kissed him too. We just about felt like family!!